While no one is completely sure where the Birman breed came from, all cat fanciers agree that it is an older breed. Some breeders say the Birman is closely related to the Siamese cat, since it resembles a slightly stockier Siamese in appearance. In fact, more than one person has said that when the pure white Burman temple cats changed color, it was probably because a stray Siamese cat fathered a few litters of kittens.

In the nineteen twenties, the Birman cat reached Europe. A single female survived the long voyage from Burma to France and gave birth to a female kitten who is the ancestor of today’s Birman cats. This cat was most likely crossed with a Siamese cat. After World War II, the Birman was in grave danger of extinction, as only one known pair of Birmans had survived the German occupation. The breed was again outcrossed with another cat to avoid extinction, although this time the Persian was most likely used.

With all of the inbreeding that was done to save the Birman breed, it would be no surprise if these cats were prone to several hereditary diseases. However, the breed is surprisingly healthy overall. Just be aware that most of these cats are prone to anesthesia sensitivity and this problem, along with the fact that Birmans can be either A or B blood type, can cause trouble on the operating table. The breed is also prone to developing hairballs.

Since the Birman is prone to hairballs, you may want to feed your cat a diet that is formulated to aid in hairball prevention. If he becomes lethargic and does not eat as much as he normally does, you should consult your veterinarian about treating him for hairballs. Since this breed is not as active as some other breeds, you may also need to ask your veterinarian about feeding your cat a weight control diet if he becomes overweight.

While this breed is a longhair breed, it does not have a heavy coat. As long as you comb your Birman’s hair once a week, you should not have a problem with the coat matting.

If you are looking for a cat that isn’t quite as demanding and attention seeking as some of the more affectionate breeds, but also isn’t too standoffish, the Birman breed is a good choice. These cats are still somewhat playful, curious and affectionate, like their Siamese relatives, but are more laid back and relaxed than the Siamese, like their Persian relatives.

The problem is that not all coughing means a hairball. Sometimes it can be far more serious. Asthma attacks are an emergency. Asthma can kill. I recommend you watch these videos (links below) so you can recognize the symptoms, and can take appropriate emergency measures. Know where the nearest emergency vet clinic is located. If you think you have seen these symptoms in you cat, talk to your vet ASAP.

As someone who has asthma, I know how scary a sudden onset attack can be. Seeing it in a cat was heartrending. There are medications such as albuterol inhalers, Flovent and steroids to cut inflammation — how familiar I have used them, too… They even have the aerokat pet inhaler designed as a feline friendly device for using MDI’s (metered dose inhalers). This video shows it being used.

Each of the people who took these videos did so in order to educate others.

I found Dave’s Feline Asthma attack video while browsing. That is what got me started on this blog entry. The coughing is not like hairball coughs I have heard. Much more labored and tiring for the poor kitty.

This video gives a medical explanation of symptoms associated with feline asthma.

Another video of a cat with labored breathing. As the person who posted this wrote: “The purpose of this video is to give an example of what labored or abdominal breathing looks like. This video was made in order to show our vet what we were seeing. Needless to say, Stinky [their cat] was brought in to the emergency room after capturing this footage. Note: Normal respiration should be between 20-30 [per minute].“

Cats can also have food or environmental allergies, as we found out when Glory repeatedly started scratching the side of her neck until she was bloody. For a more detailed discussion of what we learned, see my article “When Cats Have Allergies“.

I had an earlier post on some Online Feline Medical and Health Resources to find reliable medical information regarding feline health issues. Looking it over, I think I will add others in a future blog entry when I can.

Oral solutions:
Petromalt or Laxatone: Some cats will actually lick the paste from the tube. Not ours. So we have to restrain a cat and rub into the fur about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of paste onto a front leg. Then release cat. She or he runs away with a look of ruffled dignity and begins frantically grooming the icky stuff off their fur. Both Petromalt and Laxatone promote the passage of fur out into the litter box. We have also used Lactulose (a prescription medicine available from veterinarians) which is a stool softener, although it has other medicinal functions as well.

Brushes and combs:
All of these work well. Listed in order of how much loose undercoat you get off in the least amount of grooming time, longest time to shortest. Just have your vacuum cleaner handy for use right after brushing or combing your cats. Otherwise, the loose fur will fly everywhere!

Flea combs do just what they say, comb out live or dead fleas. Our veterinarian told us that after each short run through the fur with the comb, dip the comb in a prepared bowl of slightly soapy water. The soap prevents live fleas from jumping off the water’s surface tension. Then use a damp cloth to wipe off any soapy residue from your cat. BTW, the reddish cast to the water is your cat’s blood that the now dead fleas ingested.

Brushes come in many styles such as wire, pins and bristles. Long hair cats usually do better with the first two types, although you can use all three on short hair cats.

Bamboo Ruffle the fur against the way it grows, then use this comb in 3 to 4 inch strokes.

Furminator I use this primarily for brushing the backs and sides of our densely furred cats. Usually I comb about half the length of the body with each stroke. Be very careful if you go near the belly, legs or tail. You could scrape their skin with this tool. It is amazing in how much fur you can get off in just 3-5 minutes.

It helps tremendously when we use both a paste and brushing for each cat. Whatever you use, do so consistently, at least once a week.

Fur, fur everywhere and not just on my cat…

We love our feline companions, but often wish for ways to control or clean up their shed fur. Here are some ideas to help you (and your cat!)

Why cat fur is shed everywhere

Cats have at least two layers of fur (some have three!) and the one we see most often is the longer upper layer. This layer is not shed in great quantities by cats. It is the dense shorter underlayer designed to insulate cats during weather of any kind that is shed. Shedding of old fur occurs year-long, with a seasonal increase after winter being the most prolific. A cat’s self-grooming of this seasonal shedding is what leads to spring and summer hairballs and the resultant problems for your cat and you. Having said this, we turn to ways of decreasing shed fur, first on your cat, and then in your home.

When to brush or comb

Ideally, you could brush or comb your cat every day. This is a great bonding experience for both of you. Touching, purring, and talking all enhance the human-feline bond. This is a great way to relax and unwind after coming home from work or school. It also means a shorter time grooming each day than if you only brush once a week, as most cat books suggest for shorthairs and twice a week for longhairs.

Grooming kittens

Most are born at a time of year when they will not develop a dense undercoat. Nevertheless, it is important that you get a kitten used to being brushed for the following year, when they will have more fur to shed. A kitten has to learn that human contact is beneficial and pleasurable. And you will enjoy this, too!

How to brush or comb a cat’s fur

If you are using a brush with nylon or rubber bristles, your brush strokes go from tail to head, against the way the fur lays. This will loosen the most shed fur and debris for the least number of strokes. When using a nylon brush I start along the back beginning at the base of the tail upwards towards the shoulders using both short and long strokes. Then I brush both shoulder areas and sides, always against – or at a tangent to – the angle of the upper layer of fur.

In our family, all of our cats have totally rejected the slicker brush (see below) while adoring a brush with nylon bristles or a comb. As always there is an exception: Panther will only allow us to comb his fur with our fingers. So sometimes we have to hold him by his scruff to really brush out the heavy winter undercoat.

Not all of our cats let us comb their tails. Charger will allow us to comb or brush his tail from base to tip as will some of the younger cats. Longhair cats such as Maine Coons must have their tails brushed regularly to prevent tangles and get out any debris.

When using a comb (or a slicker brush) we always use short brush strokes in the direction that the fur lays, from head to tail starting with the back, then the sides. Avoid legs and the belly area as the fur is less dense there, and the skin more sensitive. Slicker brushes have thin wire bristles and if you are inexperienced or in a hurry, you can accidentally scratch your cat with it. Below is a sample of some of the other types of grooming tools available.

What you can use to groom your cat:

There are almost as many tools for grooming cats as there are for grooming human hair, including numerous varieties of brushes and combs. Some are better for longhair cats than others. Go to a pet store and hold and move the tool as if you were brushing your cat, to see which ones are comfortable for you in terms of angle of use and shape. Your cat will also have something to say about which tool is her favorite, based on how it feels to her.

With any tool, be careful not to brush or comb so deeply that you scratch your cat’s sensitive skin, or pull hard on tangles. She will definitely have something to say to you if you do!

Flea Combs

These very fine toothed metal combs with (usually) plastic handles can be used not only for eliminating fleas but also for gently combing fine furred short haired cats and kittens. Prices are $3.00 and up.

Our veterinarian taught us a trick for dealing with live fleas. After each stroke that catches a flea, dip the comb into a prepared dish of soapy water. The surface tension created by the soap captures the flea, preventing it from jumping out. The flea then sinks and drowns. Flea combs are used in addition to various medications that kill ticks, fleas and other insect pests that can harm your cat (and the rest of your family). Oh, that reddish coloring in the soapy water is your cat’s blood that the dead flea had ingested.

While we are on the subject, flea and tick preventatives include collars and various brands of liquids that are squeezed onto the skin between the shoulders from which the medicine is then absorbed. We do not recommend flea collars. Many adoption agencies are also against their use, and will specify that you not use them on any cat you adopt. The insecticide used can be harmful to your cat, cause skin irritation and even allergic-like reactions.

The preventative liquids come in single use dosages, based on a cat’s weight. Check with your veterinarian as to what he recommends. Some brands are sold over-the-counter others can only be purchased from a veterinarian. Our favorite prescription medicine is Revolution®, as it also kills roundworms and other parasites in addition to fleas and ticks. While not cheap, many adoption centers also use this for treating trapped feral cats. Revolution® killed fleas on a feral cat we trapped in less than 36 hours.

A Sample of Grooming Tools

Most of these products are available at pet stores and online pet stores. Prices and availability will vary. This is a sampling of the numerous products you can find, but each listing represents a different type of product. Brand names are the registered trademarks of their respective owners. We have used most of the products mentioned, after buying them in our local pet stores or at our veterinarians’ hospital. No, we don’t own part of any of these companies, either.

Shampoos abound, however not all cats like water. J Some waterless shampoos also exist. One of the reasons your cat spends so much time grooming is to keep his or her scent on his or her fur. A shampoo defeats this purpose. In addition, some cats may develop skin sensitivities to these products. I would only use them if your veterinarian recommends doing so and only as a short term measure.

FURminator® is the newest and the most expensive product in this lineup with its stainless steel edge deShedding Tool. It removes much of the loose or shed undercoat and is designed for use on both long and short-haired pets. The manufacturer recommends that this product not be used for cats or dogs with tight curly fur or those with thin undercoats such as Bichons, Irish Water Spaniels, Maltese, Poodles, Portuguese Water Dogs, and Shih Tzus. Usually found in the dog grooming area. Several people I have spoken with think this is the best product ever. We have not tried it yet. Price range is $35.00 for the small model (cats and small dogs) to $60.00 for large dogs. We suggest that you search online for sales on this item.

Bamboo Care’s 4 in 1 Grooming set has a two sided brush and two combs. The slicker side of the brush has fine wire teeth, while the other side has softer nylon bristles. One comb is a fine tooth for finishing up your grooming session. The other is a flea comb, for combing out fleas and their eggs. We have found this to be a good all around set for basic grooming. Hand wash. Price about $13.00

Kong’s® Zoom Groom for Cats is a cat shaped rubber brush with ¾ inch widely spaced teeth. Excellent for long hair cats, it also provides a beneficial skin massage, in addition to brushing all that long beautiful outer fur to prevent hurtful matting and tangles. Hand Wash. Price about $8.00

Groomax’s® Easy Groom Cat Shedding Blade has a rubber handle and circular metal toothed blade for rapid grooming.

Price about $7.00

Simple Solution’s® Grooming Gloves can be used on cats who seem nervous about brushes and combs. It can be a way to introduce a cat to the concept and sensation of being groomed by you. You wear the fabric gloves and the plastic nubs help remove shed fur. This is the only “tool” Panther allows us to use on him. Machine washable and line dry. Price about $3.00

Lambert Kay’s Shed Relief for Cats is a liquid supplement that your veterinarian may suggest if your cat has dry, flaky skin and sheds more than normal year-round. It contains linoleic acid and vitamins A, D and E. We have mixed it into wet food, offered it on a spoon, and even rubbed some on their paws, but not all of our cats like the scent and flavor. Price about $12.00.

Removing shed fur from places other than your cat:

Clothing:

A length of transparent tape is the old fashioned method. I only use it on small areas of fabric as it can be rather tedious. Not good on silk or wool or blends of these fabrics.

Simple Solution’s® reusable Cat Hair and Lint Remover Sponge can be rubbed over clothes or furniture. We have used this and found it also picks up dust from clothes hanging in the closet too long. J The sponge is hand washable. Price about $6.00

Hair Pic-up Roller has a handle attached to a tube with 60 layers of peelable sticky paper that pulls lint and fur off of clothing. This is a lot like using transparent tape, but you can clean a larger area at a time. Be careful and test a small area of natural fibers fabric first. Price about $4.00. Replacement tubes with more sticky paper are about $3.00 each.

Rooms and furniture:

We have found a HEPA filter vacuum cleaner to be best. This is our favorite method of removing cat fur from our home. HEPA filtration does not allow dust or other airborne particulates to escape as many non-HEPA technology machines do. (See allergy article.) Use included attachments for corners and furniture. Brush attachments create friction which dislodges the shed fur on fabrics and carpet. A vacuum cleaner hose with brush attachment or mini-vacuum with brush is also good for both furniture and hard to reach areas. If the surface is leather, a brush may not be necessary to remove the fur from your furniture. Yes, using attachments takes a bit longer, but is well worth the trouble.

Pet hair eliminator has large green thermoplastic bristles that create a static charge which attracts and holds lint and shed fur. Can be used on floors, furniture, and clothing. They say you can use it on a cat, but cats may not like the static charge very much. Price about $10.00.

Machine washable throws (small blankets) can be placed on your furniture, from sofas to chairs and even beds. They will hold shed fur that can then be washed off. Some of these are even usable as crate or carrier liners, having waterproof backing. They come in many colors, sizes and textures, and can be found in pet stores, online pet stores, or even discount department stores. Prices generally range from $20.00 on up. On a budget? You can buy a Vellux® or other soft but tightly woven blanket on sale and cut it to size, or have a whole one double as a full blanket on your bed. Don’t use an open weave — if your cat kneads the blanket, her claws will become entangled.

Place the throw on the side of your sofa that your feline friend likes to nap. If your cat requires some persuasion to use the throw, spray some Feliway® or other calming cat attractant on the surface and after a minute place your cat on the blanket. You may have to repeat this process more than once. We have several types of these throws placed in strategic locations around our home. Our cat shelves also have machine washable fabric covers for the same reasons.

Cat-A-Comb can be used if your cat is marking the corner edges of your walls. It has plastic bristles and comes with double sticky tape and catnip. Place where your cat likes to rub his face. We found this does not stick well to highly textured walls, and the design we tried did not allow us to refresh the catnip very easily. Price about $6.00.